DRIVING IN ITALY
Driving in Italy (or anywhere else abroad) is not something I have done or intend to do.
This is for three main reasons:
- In Malta, we drive on the right-hand side. Driving on the left-hand side boggles my mind, and I’d rather not.
- Driving in Italy can be chaotic, especially on the weekends and holidays. Whenever I visit Catania (Sicily), traffic is one big congestion, and every car I see is dented and/or scraped. Not to mention Naples, where driving rules are more like suggestions.
- Most importantly, when I’m on holiday, I like to relax, sit back and enjoy the scenery – which is why I prefer trains and buses.
However, my friends who love driving when they go abroad tell me that they enjoy driving in Italy.
They drive through stunning landscapes, and can reach small villages that are not accessible by train or bus.
However, it’s important to know the rules, the challenges, and the best ways to navigate Italy’s roads safely. Here’s what you need to know about driving in Italy.
Rules for Driving in Italy
Italian drivers can be either calm and relaxed, or fast and furious (especially in summer, when the summer heat goes to people's heads).
Knowing the rules for driving in Italy will help you have a smoother journey.
SPEED LIMITS
- Highways (autostrade): 130 km/h
- Non-major highways: 110 km/h
- Local roads: 90 km/h
- Urban areas: 50 km/h
Speed cameras and radar checks are common, so stick to the limits.
ZTL (Limited Traffic Zones)
Many city centres have Zona a Traffico Limitato (ZTL) areas. Only authorised vehicles can enter, and cameras enforce the restrictions.
Fines for unauthorised entry can be steep.
If you’re staying in a hotel within a ZTL, check if they can register your car to avoid fines.
ROUNDABOUTS
Traffic inside the roundabout usually has the right of way, but signs may indicate otherwise. Always check before entering.
NAVIGATION & TOLL ROADS
GPS and Maps
Get a good GPS or navigation app. In rural areas, signage may be limited, and road names can change.
Toll Roads (Autostrade)
Many highways in Italy are toll roads. Be prepared to pay with:
- Cash
- Credit/debit card
- Telepass (an electronic toll payment system for quicker passage)
Toll booths are clearly marked. Take a ticket when entering, then pay when exiting.
Understanding Traffic Alerts: Bollino Nero and Bollino Rosso
If you’re driving in Italy during peak travel periods, you’ll hear the terms bollino nero (black dot) and bollino rosso (red dot). These indicate expected traffic congestion levels.
Bollino Nero (Black Dot)
- The highest traffic warning.
- Indicates extremely heavy traffic, severe congestion, and long delays.
- Common on peak travel days, especially the first weekend of August when Italians head on holiday (because of Ferragosto).
Bollino Rosso (Red Dot)
- Signifies very heavy traffic, but not as extreme as bollino nero.
- Expect congestion and delays, particularly at the start and end of holiday periods.
- Often applies to busy travel days and weekends.
To avoid these traffic nightmares, plan ahead, check road conditions, and travel during off-peak hours.
Parking
Parking in Italy can be tricky, especially in busy cities.
Things to look out for are the colour of the parking line, and whether the area you're in has a parking meter.
Colour-Coded Parking Lines
- Blue lines: Paid parking (use nearby meters or apps like EasyPark)
- White lines: Free parking
- Yellow lines: Reserved for residents, disabled drivers, or special permits
Parking Meters
In paid parking areas, buy a ticket from a meter and display it on your dashboard.
Local Laws and Safety
Headlights
Headlights must be on at all times on highways, even during the day.
In fact, many cars are now equipped with Daytime Running Lights (DRLs).
Check if the car you rent is equipped with DRLs or if you have to switch the headlights on manually.
Seat Belts
Everyone in the car must wear a seat belt. Police can issue fines for non-compliance.
Drinking and Driving
The legal blood alcohol limit is 0.05%. For new drivers (less than three years of experience), it’s 0.00%. It’s best to avoid alcohol altogether if you’re driving.
Emergency Kit
By law, your car must carry:
- A reflective vest
- A warning triangle
- A spare tire or tire repair kit
Fuel and Service Stations
- Fuel is more expensive on the highway (autostrada) – Expect to pay significantly more at autostrada service stations.
- Cheaper fuel is found in towns and cities – Local fuel stations, especially in smaller towns and supermarkets, often have lower prices.
- Self-service stations (fai da te) are cheaper – Many stations offer a fai da te option, which is cheaper than servito (full service).
1. Where to Find the Cheapest Fuel
2. Understanding Fuel Types
- Diesel = Gasolio
- Unleaded Petrol = Benzina Senza Piombo
- LPG = GPL (available at select stations)
- Methane = Metano (less common, but available in some areas)
3. Payment Methods
- Cash and cards are widely accepted – However, some rural or independent stations may only accept cash.
- Some self-service pumps require a PIN for credit/debit card payments.
- Pre-authorisation hold – Some card-operated pumps place a temporary hold on a larger amount before charging the actual cost.
4. Fuel Stations Operating Hours
- Many stations close for lunch (12:30–15:30) and on Sundays, especially in rural areas.
- 24/7 self-service pumps are common, but they require prepayment by card or cash.
5. Filling Up at a Self-Service Pump
- Select fai da te for self-service or servito if you prefer assistance.
- If paying by cash, insert money into the automated machine before fuelling.
- If paying by card, follow the instructions on the pump.
6. Fuel Apps and Websites
- Use apps like Prezzi Benzina or Google Maps to compare fuel prices nearby.
Driving in Italian Cities
Driving in larger cities is very challenging, as many of them have vast ZTL areas as well as other restrictions on traffic.
Here are a few examples:
Milan
Milan has both ZTL zones and an Area C congestion charge for entering the city centre. Payment is required, and cameras monitor vehicles.
Rome
Rome’s traffic is chaotic. Avoid driving if possible. The city has a vast ZTL, making it difficult to navigate without permits. Parking is scarce, and public transport is often a better option.
Florence
Florence also has strict ZTL zones. Many tourists receive fines for driving into restricted areas. If you must drive, use a car park outside the city centre and walk or take public transport.
Emergency Contacts
Highway Emergency Help Points: Look for the yellow SOS phones along highways.
If you run into trouble, these numbers can help:
- Emergency Services (Police, Ambulance, Fire): 112
- Roadside Assistance (ACI – Automobile Club d’Italia): 803 116
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